Sophia Loren sat down next to Jared Leto at
the center of the VIP section, wearing a red crystal-embroidered dress
engineered over her still-impressive curves.
Just down the row was
little Chloë Moretz, wearing a cloudy gray chiffon top, also sparkling
with crystals.
Who knows how deliberately these things are orchestrated,
but by coincidence or not, they were about to watch an Armani Privé
collection for fall which was entirely in black, white, and red. “Three
basic colors, tone on tone,” Mr. Armani said.
The
first third explored Armani’s tailoring—short swing coats, sometimes
over shorts, a pantsuit with a geometric bell cut into the sleeves, and
jackets with fluted peplums.
Flashes of strong lacquer red (an echo of
Armani’s abiding love of Asia) built through the collection until it was
fully out there in long evening dresses of the sleekness that endears
so many movie stars to Mr. Armani.
Still, he wasn’t in the mood
for sticking to the predictable straight and narrow this season. There
was a distinct aura of whimsy—or call it dottiness—about the way he
started to whip up meters of tulle into skirts as densely frilled as
pom-poms, and add headdresses and net veils smothered with red or black
polka dots.
Part playful, part a nod to a classic trope of fifties haute
couture imagery, the veiling eventually grew to cover one or two
models, and their dresses, entirely. When the finale dressed
appeared—including a black dress with multiple white dots under a
black-and-white spotted veil—the model looked as if she’d been caught up
in a snowstorm on a winter’s night. In a nice way.
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